If you’ve asked me about my past trips to Pakistan or why I wanted to go back, I’m sure you’ve heard me mention the restaurant Monal. ( https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293960-d1049378-Reviews-Monal_Islamabad-Islamabad_Islamabad_Capital_Territory.html ). Maybe repeatedly. It opened in the early 2000s, and I’m pretty sure that I visited it during most of my short trips (2007, 09, 11, 16, 17, 18) and at least twice in 2019-20. It is massive, with over 1,000 staff and the spac e to seat several hundred at a time. It has a small parking lot, so some people park as far as a kilometer away. The food is quite good—Pakistani and Middle Eastern fare—but you go for the view. It sits in the Margalla Hills north of Islamabad, and overlooks the city at 3800 feet. I tell people it’s also the best lesson on political economy in Pakistan. On a warm summer night, you can see the lights of the city. Then, as air conditioners in town turn on (it’s much cooler in...
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